Tet Doan Ngo Across the 3 Regions of Vietnam: The Bustling Picture of Local Livelihoods

Tet Doan Ngo, observed on the 5th day of the 5th lunar month, is one of Vietnam's most important traditional festivals. Often associated with health, seasonal change, and family customs, the holiday has been celebrated for generations across the country. While the core meaning remains similar from region to region, the way people observe the day varies greatly. Markets become busier, traditional foods appear in abundance, and local customs that have been preserved for decades return for another year.

In northern Vietnam, preparations for Tet Doan Ngo begin long before sunrise. Traditional markets become especially lively as people gather to buy seasonal fruits and foods associated with the festival. Stalls fill with ripe lychees, plums, and other early-summer produce that are traditionally enjoyed on this day. Among the most recognizable items are banh gio, also known as ash cakes, with their distinctive amber color and mild flavor. These cakes remain closely linked to Tet Doan Ngo in many northern provinces and are often prepared for family offerings.

One of the most notable sights in Hanoi and surrounding areas is the appearance of white lotus flowers. Their elegant appearance makes them particularly popular during the festival period, and demand often exceeds supply. Vendors begin selling flowers from the earliest hours of the morning, and many bouquets are purchased shortly after arriving at the market. The combination of seasonal fruits, traditional cakes, and lotus flowers creates a distinctive atmosphere that signals the arrival of Tet Doan Ngo across northern Vietnam. The energy of these early-morning markets offers a clear glimpse into how traditional customs continue to shape everyday life in modern cities.

Tet Doan Ngo in Hanoi - white lotus flowers (Source: dantri.com.vn) 

Moving toward central Vietnam, Tet Doan Ngo is associated with a unique tradition centered on herbal leaves. In Da Nang and neighboring areas, people search for bundles known locally as "la mung 5," or "5th of May leaves." These bundles are made from a mixture of familiar medicinal plants and herbs that have long been connected with traditional health practices. Depending on local preferences and availability, a bundle may include ingredients such as perilla, mugwort, plantain, patchouli, polyscias fruticosa, wild betel leaves, and other native herbs.

The leaves are commonly prepared as herbal drinks and are believed to play a role in cleansing and promoting well-being during the seasonal transition. The custom has become an important annual event for many farming households. In the weeks leading up to Tet Doan Ngo, farmers harvest, sort, and bundle large quantities of herbs to meet demand. Markets become crowded with buyers looking for the freshest bundles, while roadside vendors create temporary stalls dedicated entirely to these traditional products.

Tet Doan Ngo in Danang - making of "La mung 5"

Further south along Vietnam's central coastline, Nha Trang offers one of the most unusual Tet Doan Ngo traditions in the country. Here, the festival is closely connected with the sea. Every year, large numbers of residents gather at local beaches around noon on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month. According to local beliefs, seawater at exactly midday possesses special cleansing qualities capable of washing away bad luck and negative energy accumulated during the year.

The scene is remarkable. Families arrive early to secure places along the shore, while children, adults, and elderly participants wait together for the moment when the clock reaches noon. As midday approaches, anticipation grows across the beach. Once the time arrives, thousands of people enter the water almost simultaneously, creating one of the most memorable Tet Doan Ngo gatherings in Vietnam.

Tet Doan Ngo in Nha Trang - People gather to the beach

In southern Vietnam, Tet Doan Ngo is strongly associated with food traditions and neighborhood craft production. In Ho Chi Minh City and surrounding provinces, one of the most recognizable symbols of the festival is banh u, a small pyramidal rice cake wrapped in leaves. These cakes are commonly prepared with mung bean filling and remain an essential part of many family offerings during the holiday.

In some areas, entire streets remain awake until dawn. Cooking fires burn continuously while workers coordinate orders and deliveries to ensure cakes reach markets and households before the morning of Tet Doan Ngo. The atmosphere combines hard work, community cooperation, and long-established culinary traditions. Alongside banh u, seasonal fruits such as durian, rambutan, and other southern specialties become increasingly visible in markets, contributing to the festive atmosphere.

Tet Doan Ngo in HCMC - people making banh u (Source: vietnam.vn)