Lung Ri Yin-Yang Tile Village: The Soul of Northern Architecture

Located about 4 kilometres from the Tu Do commune centre and 7 kilometres from the heart of Quang Hoa district, Lung Ri is a quiet, unassuming village that holds one of Cao Bang's most precious cultural secrets.

For international travellers exploring the Northeast loop, Lung Ri offers something increasingly rare in modern Asia: a living, breathing museum of indigenous architecture. Here, 100 percent of the Nung An ethnic community still maintains traditional wooden stilt houses. Even when families build modern structures, they refuse to tear down their ancestral wooden homes.

But the true masterpiece of this village is found right above their heads. For over 200 years, the people of Lung Ri have preserved the grueling, meticulous art of crafting "ngoi am duong" - the traditional yin-yang roof tiles that define the aesthetic of Vietnam's mountainous regions.

The philosophy of the Yin-Yang roof
The distinct, classical look of a Northern Vietnamese stilt house comes directly from the way these tiles are laid. The term "yin-yang" refers to the interlocking pair system used on the roof.

The "yin" (ngoi long mang) is the underlying tile that faces upward, acting as a channel to catch and drain rainwater. The "yang" (ngoi bo) is the covering tile that faces downward, capping the joints to prevent leaks. This ancient interlocking system is not just visually striking; it is an incredible piece of practical engineering. A yin-yang roof creates a highly breathable structure that keeps the wooden houses exceptionally cool during the harsh tropical summers, yet completely insulated and warm during the freezing mountain winters.

A masterclass in manual craftsmanship
Creating a single batch of these tiles is a monumental test of patience. The kilns in Lung Ri have been burning for over two centuries, and the handmade process has barely changed since the beginning.

It all starts with sourcing the perfect soft, pliable clay. Once gathered, the clay must be meticulously filtered to remove any tiny stones or gravel. It is then piled into large blocks and covered tightly with plastic to retain moisture. Traditionally, local artisans rely on water buffaloes to trample and knead the clay continuously for days until it reaches the perfect elastic consistency.

Next comes the shaping stage. The clay is compressed into rectangular blocks before being transferred to a spinning wooden pedestal. The craftsman uses a wet bamboo stick to compress the clay surface, measuring out an exact thickness of 1 centimetre. The mold itself is a wooden cylinder measuring 25 centimetres in diameter. It features four internal ridges, which create thin grooves in the clay. Because of these grooves, each molded cylinder can be easily snapped into four perfectly uniform tiles once dried. As they spin the pedestal, the artisans carve and shape the clay with incredible rhythmic precision.

The freshly cut tiles are then carefully laid out to dry on the ground. To prevent the wet clay from sticking to the earth, the villagers cover the ground with a thick layer of natural rice husks. The final, most demanding stage is the firing process. The tiles are stacked into massive traditional wood-fired kilns, which must be kept burning continuously for seven days and nights. Villagers take turns keeping watch, carefully managing the heat to ensure the clay hardens perfectly. A single successful kiln run yields between 15,000 and 18,000 beautiful, terracotta-coloured tiles.

Experiencing Lung Ri: A canvas for culture and photography
For cultural travellers, architecture enthusiasts, and photographers, Lung Ri is not just a place to pass through - it is an interactive heritage site.

When you visit, the best way to experience the village is on foot. Exploring the local architecture allows you to see how the Nung An people harmonize their living spaces with the surrounding limestone valleys. The sight of hundreds of antique stilt houses nestled together, their curved yin-yang roofs weathered by time, offers endless opportunities for cultural photography.

Beyond sightseeing, you can step directly into the workshops to learn about the tile-making craft. Watching the manual process firsthand - from the rhythmic spinning of the mold to the intense heat of the wood kilns - provides a deep appreciation for the labour behind the architecture. You can interact with the artisans, learn the secrets of their local products, and even try your hand at shaping a piece of clay. It is an immersive, slow-travel experience that connects you directly with the indigenous rhythm of Cao Bang.

Preserving a fragile heritage
Like many traditional crafts, the tile-making industry in Lung Ri is facing a severe modern threat. Around 2010 to 2015, over 80 percent of the village households were actively making tiles. However, the rise of cheap, highly convenient industrial roofing materials - such as fibro cement and corrugated metal sheets - has drastically reduced local demand. Furthermore, the grueling physical labour offers relatively low financial returns, prompting many younger generations to leave for factory work. Today, only 23 households in Lung Ri still actively maintain their kilns, firing only two or three batches a year.

Yet, there is a strong movement to protect this heritage. Recognizing its immense cultural value, the Cao Bang provincial government officially designated Lung Ri as a traditional craft village in early 2024. Today, Lung Ri tiles are highly sought after beyond Cao Bang. They are shipped to Son La, Lai Chau, Dien Bien, Hanoi, and Hai Phong, where they are used to restore ancient temples, build boutique heritage resorts, and design cultural cafes.